In the mid-19th century French Fashion dolls were created to showcase current fashion at a time when the French couture industry was pre-eminent in the world. These dolls, usually quite tall, were sent around the world to allow the wealthy class to see and touch the latest Paris fashions.

From this came the French Fashion dolls that were the playthings of the middle and wealthy class. These dolls were more richly dressed than ordinary play dolls. Perhaps this is why they are so collectible today.

Early doll makers include the following:

Adelaide Calixte Huret, created only one doll type, a 45 cm doll that she patented in 1850. Early dolls had glazed porcelain heads; later dolls had unglazed bisque heads. Her doll represented a young girl wearing an Enfantine style of clothing.

E. Barrois, 1858 to 1877, was a bisque doll-parts supplier to doll makers who assembled the parts they received.

Madame Marie Antoinette Leontine Rohmer, 1857-1880, was a competitor of Huret. who created fashion dolls of various sizes, from 14″-18″ tall,. They were made with a china or bisque swivel head, kid lined shoulder plate, articulated joined body of kid leather, and have a body stamp: Mme. Rohmer Brevete SGDG Paris. The doll shown above in evening attire is a Rohmer from 1858.

Pierre Francois Jumeau, 1842 to 1874, and his son, Emile Jumeau, who joined the firm in 1878, originally created French Fashion dolls with bisque heads supplied by F. Gaultier. The Jumeau firm produced their own heads and French Fashion dolls from 1872 to 1882.

Leon Casimir Bru, beginning in 1866, was known for manufacturing high priced dolls. His wife, Appolyne, a seamstress, created elaborate costumes for these dolls. Early bisque heads came from the firm of E. Barrois. One of his most famous dolls is a Smiling Bru, made to represent Princess Eugenie, the wife of Napolean III.

Francois Gaultier, 1860-1916, made Fashion Lady dolls as well as supplying dolls heads to many noted doll makers in France. Doll heads from his early period are marked F.G. The firm used three different bodies: wood, wood and composition, and Gesland, which had a padded metal armature covered with knit fabric.

There were dozens of other manufacturers of French Fashion dolls as well as unmarked dolls that showcase this era.

A whole industry arose around these glamorous dolls, with many shops in Paris devoted to the dolls and their trousseaus. These included La Poupee Modele and Gazette de la Poupee, which featured articles, stories, fashion plates, and patterns for dressing the 45 cm dolls.